July is high season for barbecue. Oh the bounty, the bits stuck to Munch's grill, of slow-smoked ribs, a whole chicken basted with honey, fat El Paso chili cheeseburgers, corn rubbed with lime and chili powder, cumin-dusted shish kebab, chunks of swordfish threaded onto a stalk of lemongrass.

   

Young Bin Kwan is at 4305 Main St., Bloomfield (412-687-2222).

   

When Munch doesn't feel like firing it up at home, Korean barbecue is a spicy alternative. Unfortunately, few joints offer Korean barbecue in Pittsburgh; Sushi Kim, Jimmy's Korean Grill at Jimmy Tsang's and Ginza are the noble few.

One day, taking the long curve up Liberty Avenue from Lawrenceville to Bloomfield, Munch noticed a giant "Grand Opening" sign flapping on the building that once housed Young Bin Kwan. The new sign read "Young Bin Kwan."

Munch remembered, long ago, dining there at a long table with MOM and DOM, as a small picky child who wouldn't touch fish. Young Bin Kwan had been there for decades, but Munch's child's mind didn't capture the details, way back when.

So what warrants the grand opening sign at old Young Bin Kwan? Munch asked the kindly gentleman who seemed to be in charge. He said, "Yes. We are Young Bin Kwan." Aha.

Inside, it's a clean and serene environment. All the tables are neatly set with rolled red napkins and a base plate. Between the entrance and the dining room, there's a rounded bridge over a gurgling goldfish pond. Clear water trickles over a wall of uneven stone. It's a calming environment and, on the Monday night Munch visited, very still.

The waitress, wrapped in a short, patterned kimono over tight, flared jeans, padded over to hand us the long menu of Chinese, Korean and Japanese specialties. Munch flipped straight to the Korean pages.

Though Munch is an adventurous eater, Korean-style beef tripe, tongue and liver didn't appeal. Grilled short ribs, chicken and shrimp are more to Munch's liking.

FOM was seduced by the words "spicy," "marinated" and "pork" and immediately decided on pork bulgoki. Munch likes to balance a grilled entree with a rice or noodle entree, so Munch ordered bibimbop, a steaming bowl of crispy rice, beef and pickled vegetables, capped with a fried egg. Young Bin Kwan's version is first-rate, served with a house-made hot sauce on request.

For an appetizer, a spicy tuna roll was ordered, just because it could be. Compared to the rich choices of Korean and Chinese entrees, limited sushi pads the menu. The fish was warmish and soft, the rice loose, the roll decidedly unspicy. Next time, Munch would choose soup or dumplings as a starter.

In many restaurants, Korean barbecue is prepared tabletop, on a gas-powered grill that a panel in the center of the table flips up or slides off to reveal. Raw, marinated meat is brought and laid out on the sizzling surface, and you can turn the meat with chopsticks until it is perfectly done. It's a nice, companionable ritual for friends.

Though Young Bin Kwan is outfitted with tabletop grills, and the menu specifies that some dishes are cooked at the table, the thinly sliced pork came out sizzling on an iron fajita plate. Oh well. At least it was fiery with spice and garlic and served with strong sides of pickled cucumber, kim chee, zucchini and shredded radish.

The short menu of libations features plum wine, sake, Asahi, Heineken, OB, Tsing Tao and Corona. With any sort of barbecue, especially in such hot weather, beer is the perfect drink. Munch drank a cold beer with a good meal at the low table in the cool room that is Young Bin Kwan, decades old or brand new.

First Published: July 16, 2004, 4:00 a.m.