On the expressive pottery of the Mochica, a people who lived and thrived in the coastal valleys of northern Peru on the eve of the 15th-century Inca conquest, is a painted record of their daily lives and toils, the symbols they held dear and even the foods they ate, most noticeably the lima bean (Phaseolus lunatus), a distinctive relative of the common bean.

Named for the city where the Spaniards first found it, the lima is one of the oldest beans to come out of the Americas, with remains dating from 6000 to 5000 B.C. Scientists recognize two main branches of the genus domesticated in Latin America. The Central American types are small, while the South American beans consumed in ancient Peru are of the heftier variety we know today as lima beans.

One of my passions is pre-Columbian pottery, and I have found the Mochica pottery housed at the Larco Museum in Lima (Museo Arqueologico Rafael de Larco Herrera, museolarco.perucultural.org) to be among the most fascinating and revealing of the Americas. The pots with lima bean designs are intriguing: Some of the beans are anthropomorphic, painted with faces and fitted with legs and feet. It is believed these symbolize messengers or warriors.

In some pots, symmetrical rows of lima beans blanket the whole surface. The beans are mottled like some butter beans of the American South, particularly the so-called Florida butter bean (also called speckled lima bean).

In Huanchaco, Peru, I met Gail Ryser, an archaeology student working on a doctoral dissertation on lima beans (known in Peru as pallares) as indicators of social relations in the Moche valley. Her preliminary research confirmed that lima beans were mostly consumed by the ruling elite.

It seems that such distinction was also prevalent among the Inca. Rafael Larco, who spent his life learning about the Moche and Mochica cultures, believes that the lima bean designs are ideographs, a type of proto writing, which reinforces its status as an elite food charged with symbolic meaning.

Whatever their symbolic connotation, lima beans can be delicious. I am not particularly fond of young, fresh limas, but I find the dried large ones meaty and succulent. They are less beany than common beans and instead have a buttery texture. Peruvians cook them in rich stews with pork, but often take the time to peel each bean to make silky purees (puree de pallar) and a creamy dessert similar to dulce de leche called manjar blanco de pallar.

To peel the beans, it is necessary to soak them in water for a few hours or preferably overnight. The skin slips off easily, and it makes a tremendous difference in texture. The peeled beans cook relatively fast -- in less than one hour. If you forget a pot of peeled limas on the fire, don't despair. The beans practically disintegrate into a creamy broth. If you add sugar, milk and aromatic spices to the pot and give the broth time to thicken into a pudding-like consistency, stirring occasionally, you will have yourself a delightful dessert.

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DRIED LIMA BEAN PUREE WITH PARMIGIANO (Puree de Pallar)

The idea for this terrific lima bean puree comes from Jorge (Coque) Ossio Giulfo, a Peruvian chef who contributed the recipe to Tony Custer's "The Art of Peruvian Cuisine." The original calls for cream, but I prefer to use milk.

You will love the richness and creaminess of this puree. The use of Parmigiano-Reggiano should not surprise anyone who has visited Lima. Italians have lived and worked in the country since at least the 19th century, and their cooking has had enormous impact on Peruvian food.

When you see the thickness and the amount of skin you discard from the lima beans, you will understand why Peruvians want to get rid of it. Serve the puree as a side dish for stews. It is also a terrific dip for focaccia or toasted Cuban bread.

• 1 pound dried large lima beans (about 2 cups)
  
• 1 small onion, peeled and cut in half
  
• 1/2 cup whole milk
  
• 4 tablespoons salted butter
  
• 2/3 cup (about 2 ounces) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
  
• 1 teaspoon salt or to taste

Place the lima beans in a large bowl and cover with 3 quarts water. Let soak overnight, a minimum of 12 hours. Drain the beans and cover again with cold water.

After the soaking, the thick skin of the beans begins to detach by itself. By rubbing your hands gently over the beans you can expedite the process. Otherwise, pinch the skin gently and pull it off. To do this job, I sit at my kitchen table or on a stool by the kitchen counter and work slowly, with pleasure. As you stir the beans with your hands the skins will float. Pour out the water and skins every so often and add more water.

When the beans are peeled, place in a 6-quart pot with the onion and 3 quarts water. Bring to a gentle boil and simmer, uncovered, until the beans are tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Skim often; the beans foam a lot. Stir in salt to taste 15 minutes before the end of cooking. Strain the beans, discarding the onion.

Working in batches if necessary, place the cooked beans in a blender or food processor and process into a fine puree. Pour into a medium saucepan with the milk and heat over medium heat. Add the butter and Parmigiano. Taste for salt and season to taste.

Pour the beans into a serving bowl and serve hot.

Makes 8 servings.

First Published: July 11, 2007, 11:30 p.m.