The purple glow of the neon sign peeks through the front window while fragrant plumes from a smoldering cinnamon stick scents the air. A packed house of patrons, snugly shoehorned around tables and on barstools, tap their feet and fingers to the syncopation and alto sax of Latin jazz, noshing plantain chips and tacos between songs.
The venue is Con Alma — “with soul,” it means in Spanish — and the name comes from no less than the immortal Dizzy Gillespie. But it could just as well be called Con Cinco Sentido — with fives senses — because a visit here hits them all.
It was opened in June by Josh Ross, the former chef at the bygone Caribbean food and rum destination Pirata in Market Square, general manager Aimee Marshall and professional musician and Con Alma’s music director John Shannon. The partners have created a sonic and gustatory delight that is an experience in the truest sense of the word.
Even on a Sunday night in February, the room had the vibrant energy of a summer Friday: the airtight five-piece Rick Matt Ensemble grooved while bar patrons enjoyed cocktails such as the Louis Armstrong-inspired “Satchmo’s Sipper” made with Washington County’s Liberty Pole rye whiskey, Chinese five spice, Peychaud’s bitters, absinthe and the aforementioned smoked cinnamon ($12) or a Sangrita with carrot juice, jalapeno and mezcal ($10). There’s also a respectable selection of wine by the bottle and glass and canned beers.
Painted deep blue and black and decorated with vintage concert posters, the 1,900-square-foot restaurant features a Latin-inspired menu of apps, tacos, vegetable plates, ceviche and entrees ($9-$21) and there’s a $5 cover charge on food and drink bills for the nightly live music.
Fresh guacamole with mango and habanero pepper was creamy with sweet heat with house plantain chips as a delivery device ($12). A savory flaky, crispy golden-brown shell enveloped piquant ground beef in the Jamaican Beef Patty ($10).
The “Tiradito” ceviche — a half-dozen day boat scallops topped with shoyu pearls and over a creamy aji amarillo sauce with toasted pistachio — is an umami vector with a wonderful blend of texture ($15).
An entree of Lechon Asado is a meal of Caribbean comfort: tender slow-roasted slightly fatty pork marinated in a subtle mojo sauce, served with rich black beans and white rice, fresh avocado, and pickled red onion with a crunchy bite ($21).
The place isn’t necessarily for everyone. By definition you can expect it to be loud, and if it's crowded it can get a little hot and claustrophobic.
But otherwise Con Alma is a dining experience that hits all the notes — not unlike the musicians performing there.
Con Alma: 5884 Ellsworth Ave., Shadyside; 412-363-5316; https://www.conalmapgh.com/
Dan Gigler: dgigler@post-gazette.com; Twitter @gigs412
First Published: February 19, 2020, 5:09 p.m.
