As I sit in the small chair in the small dining room with sweat dripping down my back, beading on my forehead and moving south from my chin to my neck, I can’t help but think I’ve been hoodwinked a bit. Because the name of this restaurant is called “Hug” which suggests gentle treatment. Caring. Compassion.
Instead, I feel like I’m being thermally maimed by the capsaicin contained in the platter of Thai food in front of me. But, that’s kind of my fault. Some people go to the sauna for a schvitz, or to hot yoga to get their toxins out. I like to punish myself with Thai food instead.
Mind you this isn’t the hottest Thai food I’ve ever had. Not even close. But it’s also not as hot as they can make it here either. Though the menu says they’ll do the typical 1 to 10 heat levels, those are often akin to the subjectivity in judging the attractiveness of a potential mate — one person’s 10 might be another one’s 3, and vice versa.
So when I asked Paula, the hilariously matter-of-fact waitress who seemed plucked straight from a pure Pittsburgh diner, just how hot a 10 is, she deadpanned: “Honey, I get a 30 or 40. I’ve worked at three Thai restaurants for years now. I ain’t normal when it comes to that.”
Those other two restaurants by the way are Le Thai Cafe on Mount Royal Boulevard in Shaler and Highland Park favorite Smiling Banana Leaf. They’re both owned by members of the same family that recently took over Hug Thai, which is on 44th Street, just across from UPMC Children’s Hospital of Pittsburgh.
It’s a tiny spot, cute and cozy with four tables. It’s the kind of place where you invariably overhear all the other diners’ conversations and start gabbing with them, which is refreshing in a time in which people go out to eat and drink only to keep their noses firmly entrenched in their smart-phone screen bubbles.
They do all the appetizers, noodle and rice dishes, curries and soups one would expect at any quality Thai joint, and reasonably priced, from $5 to $14.
An order of five fried pork dumplings were like sweet and crispy little meatballs ($6); the mango salad light, crisp and refreshing ($8) and though I’ve had better duck noodle soup ($11) this had a piquant and peppery broth that began eliciting the aforementioned perspiration.
The pad cashew noodles ($11) were quite tasty; the long flat noodles are simultaneously savory and tangy, with crunchy cashews and broccoli, aromatic red and green peppers and chili paste that poured on the sweet heat, as did the Kao Soy, or yellow curry noodles with chicken ($11).
This spartan spot is a solid option for quick and unfussy Thai — but fair warning, you may come in for a hug and leave in a sweat.
Hug Thai Restaurant: 472 44th St., Lawrenceville; 412-315-7667; http://hugthairestaurant.com/
Dan Gigler: dgigler@post-gazette.com; Twitter @gigs412
First Published: August 22, 2019, 11:30 a.m.
