With winter comfortably in our rear-view mirror, those of us who love to cook outdoors have made a beeline to the backyard and dusted off our Webers.
There’s something about trading the invisible heat of an oven for the dancing flames of an electric or charcoal grill that makes cooking seem exciting again, not to mention less of a chore. When you’re being serenaded by birds and train whistles instead of Alex Trebek reading questions on “Jeopardy,” making dinner just seems like more fun.
But still ...
While men fire up and man the grill more than us girls (about 70 percent of the time, according to the Hearth, Patio and Barbecue Association), I’ll bet it’s Mom and not Dad who’s responsible for getting everything else on the picnic table at supper time.
Not to put my husband on the spot or anything, because he makes one fine burger. But there’s a difference between cooking something on the grill, and cooking something on the grill, i.e., crafting all the components of a meal, including sides and sauces.
In other words, a cheeseburger, a few pickles and a handful of potato chips just don’t cut it. Even if they’re the good, kettle-fried variety.
So some men are actually good and willing home cooks. But when’s the last time you saw the female half of a couple sit on the porch enjoying a cold beer during a cookout while her guy tossed the salad, prepared the sides, put the finishing touches on homemade condiments — and also did all the grilling?
One could argue women are better at this endeavor because we’re natural multi-taskers, and have more experience preparing multiple dishes — often with varying cooking times — simultaneously. (I mean, think about Thanksgiving dinner.) Also, we’ve played the role of meal-fixer for so long, maybe it doesn’t cross our minds to let someone else take the controls.
Or maybe I’ve just got a chip on my shoulder after cooking thousands (and thousands) of meals for my husband and five children. Mother’s Day shouldn’t be the only time I get to trade my apron for a mimosa.
But times, they are changing.
“Cooking at home is now fully documented as cool, exceedingly good for you, fun to do, and, most significantly, an attractor of women,” writes celebrity chef Mario Batali in the foreword to “The Eat Like a Man Guide to Feeding a Crowd” by the editors of Esquire (Chronicle, June 2015, $30). No kidding!
To paraphrase a line from one of my favorite Hugh Grant movies: “I’m just a girl, standing in front of a boy, asking him to grill for me.”
This season, with the help of a few new cookbooks geared toward the male of the species, we’re going to help our men step up their dinner game on the grill. Esquire’s terrific new tone includes more than 80 recipes from chefs such as Mr. Batali and Donald Link of New Orleans’ Cochon fame. Each is tagged to level of difficulty (easy, reasonable and worth the effort) and includes fun head notes (sometimes an entire essay) on why the cook likes the recipe; the book also includes party-throwing techniques and cocktail recipes.
Billy Law’s “Man Food: Good Food for a Good Time” (Hardie Grant, May 2015, $29.95) goes straight for the gut with meaty, hearty, comfort food. (“Beware: This is a Quiona-Free Zone,” the book jacket reads). There’s no thoughts to calories here, but the photos are so beautiful, and hunger-inducing, that you won’t care.
Chronicle Books’ slim “Grill Eats & Drinks” (April 2015, $14.95) — part of the publishers’ Recipes for Good Times series — is heavy on the veggies and “great for the grill” entrees while also serving up easy-peasy cocktail recipes. Just 63 pages, it might be a best bet for the novice who doesn’t want to be intimidated.
All reinforce the idea that cooking dinner on the grill is easier than you might imagine to take the reins, and it doesn’t take much to get started — just a tank of propane or bag of charcoal and a few easy recipes that sound worth the effort, which we provide below.
“Forces are conspiring to make it increasingly easy to [cook]. ... All the information you could want is constantly streaming at you like a runaway truck,” chef Batali points out.
“You have the power,” he adds. “I hope you use it.”
We do, too.
Wagyu Dirty Burger
PG tested
For burgers:
1 pound, 12 ounces minced (ground) wagyu or Angus beef
1 tablespoon onion powder
2 teaspoons salt
Pinch freshly ground black pepper
8 slices cheddar cheese
4 bacon slices
4 brioche burger buns, halved and toasted
2 ounces iceberg lettuce, shredded
French fries, to serve
For chili onion jam:
1/4 cup olive oil
6 onions, thinly sliced
2 long red chilies, seeded and thinly sliced
1/4 cup white vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup smoky barbecue ketchup
Pinch cayenne pepper
Make chili jam: Heat oil in large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add onion and chili; cook for 45 to 60 minutes, until onion has softened and turned golden brown. Stir occasionally to make sure mixture doesn’t catch on the base of the saucepan and burn. Add vinegar, 1/4 cup water, sugar and salt, then stir and simmer until mixture thickens again, about 10 minutes. Add barbecue sauce and cayenne pepper, stir for another 10 minutes, then turn off heat and let it cool completely. Set aside.
Make burgers: Mix beef, onion powder, salt and pepper in a large bowl until just combined. Do not overmix. Form into 4 patties of even size and thickness.
Heat a barbecue or large grill pan to high heat.
Place patties on the hot plate, then press your thumb on the center of each to create a divet (this will prevent shrinkage). For medium-rare, cook burger for 3 minutes, flip over, top each with 2 slices of cheese and cook for another 3 minutes. At the same time, cook bacon until crisp then place on top of the cheesy patties and remove from heat.
Place a handful of lettuce on each bun base, then the patty. Top with chili onion jam and sandwich with top buns. Serve with fries on the side.
Serves 4.
— “Man Food: Good Food for a Good Time” by Billy Law (Hardie Grant, May 2015, $29.95)
Chicken Spiedies
PG tested
These Italian-Americanized kebabs (the name comes from spiedini, the Italian word for skewered meat) are perfect for sliding off the skewer into a roll for a hand-held meal.
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 1-inch chunks
Spicy Italian dressing (recipe follows)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 soft Italian rolls, split
1/4 cup melted garlic butter, or 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Put the chicken in a large resealable plastic bag, adding enough dressing to cover it, and seal the bag, pushing out any extra air. Refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.
Prepare a medium-hot single-level fire in a grill. Thread chicken onto skewers (if using bamboo, soak in water for 30 minutes beforehand) and season with salt and pepper. Discard dressing. Grill chicken, turning frequently with tongs, until charred all over and cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, brush the insides of the rolls with melted butter, and grill until toasted, 2 to 3 minutes. Place a skewer of meat inside each roll and use the bread to hold the meat as you pull out the skewer. Drizzle with a little extra dressing, if desired, and serve at once.
Makes 4 sandwiches.
— “Feeding the Fire: Recipes and Strategies for Better Barbecue and Grilling” by Joe Carroll and Nick Fauchold (Artisan, May 2015, $29.95 or $12.49 on Kindle)
Spicy Italian Dressing
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup canola oil
1/4 cup white vinegar
2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon honey
1 garlic clove, minced
1 shallot, minced
3 tablespoons parsley, chopped
3 peppadew peppers, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
Pinch red pepper flakes
Freshly ground black pepper
Put all ingredients in a jar with lid, cover tightly and shake to combine. The dressing can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
Makes 1 cup.
Chimichurri Sauce
PG tested
This fresh, herby sauce is typically used to dress grilled meats and fish. But you also can spoon it onto grilled vegetables, toss it with pasta, or use it as a salad dressing.
10 whole, peeled garlic cloves
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley
1 bunch fresh cilantro
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup water
3/4 teaspoon dried oregano
3/4 teaspoon dried basil
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
In food processor, puree garlic. Strip parsley and cilantro leaves from stems and process. Add olive oil, vinegar, water, oregano, basil and red pepper. Process until blended. Season with salt and pepper.
— Adapted from “Grill Eats & Drinks: Recipes for Good Times” (Chronicle, April 2015, $14.95)
Cider-Brined Pork Chops with Peach Salsa
PG tested
For salsa
1 cup diced peaches (I used canned)
1/4 cup diced red onion
1/2 cup finely diced scallions
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 cup diced tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
For pork
2 cups cold water, divided
1/4 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 cup cold apple cider or juice
4 bone-in rib chops, 1 1/2-inches thick
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup Pork Rub (recipe follows)
Mix peach salsa ingredients together except for salt, pepper and lime. Add seasonings and taste; if it’s too salty, add more peaches and tomatoes.
Make brine: Boil 1 cup water then add salt and sugar, stirring to dissolve. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Add remaining water and apple cider. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
Rinse the chops off and pat dry, removing any bone saw dust. Two hours before cook time, place chops and cold brine in a resealable 2-gallon freezer bag. Refrigerate for 2 hours, turning every 1/2 hour. After 2 hours in brine, remove chops, rinse and pat dry. Coat with olive oil then rub with pork rub.
Preheat grill to medium-high. Sear chops for 3 minutes per side, until caramelized. Turn heat to medium and cook chops, flipping once, until internal temperature reaches 135 degrees. Remove from grill and tent in aluminum foil on a rack to rest for 10 minutes. Internal temperature should read 145 degrees.
Serve with peach salsa.
Serves 4.
— Adapted from “Smoke It Like a Pro on the Big Green Egg” by Eric C. Mitchell (Page Street, March 2015, $21.99)
Pork Rub
2 tablespoons sweet paprika
4 tablespoons turbinado sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon each freshly ground black pepper. chili powder, garlic powder, onion powder, ground mustard
1/2 teaspoon cayenne
Mix all ingredients together and store in an airtight container for up to 3 months.
The Sauce for Every Steak
PG tested
6 cups ketchup
1 tablespoon dark-brown sugar
1 tablespoon light-brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons honey
1/2 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1/4 teaspoon white wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon Hungarian paprika
1/4 teaspoon onion salt
1/4 teaspoon garlic salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 cup Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon freshly grated horseradish (optional)
Combine ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Turn heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring. Remove from heat and let cool completely.
Transfer sauce to a large glass jar with a tight-fitting lid and close tightly. Sauce can be refrigerated for months (almost forever) which is good, because this makes about 2 quarts. Once you’ve had it, you’ll always want it on hand.
— “Esquire The Eat Like a Man Guide to Feeding a Crowd” (Chronicle, June 2015, $30)
Charred Tomato Salsa
PG tested
Canola oil
Sea salt
10 ripe plum tomatoes, cut in half lengthwise
1 white onion, cut into slices about 1/2-inch thick
6 scallions, stem ends removed
2 poblano chiles
2 red jalapeno chiles
10 sprigs cilantro
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Juice 2 limes
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
Freshly ground black pepper
Built a hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat gas grill to high. Brush grill rack with canola oil.
Very lightly oil and salt the vegetables and chiles and arrange them on the grill rack, placing the tomato halves skin-side down. Grill until each piece is caramelized and tender — the skin will picker and slightly blacken. Transfer each piece to a platter as they are done. Peel skin and remove stems from chiles once they have cooled to the touch. Place all charred vegetables in blender or food processor. Process to a puree and transfer to serving bowl.
Place cilantro, garlic, lime juice and cumin in blender or food processor and puree. Add to charred vegetable puree in bowl and stir to mix well. Taste for salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.
— “Esquire The Eat Like a Man Guide to Feeding a Crowd” (Chronicle, June 2015, $30)
Gretchen McKay: gmckay@post-gazette.com, 412-263-1419 or on Twitter @gtmckay.
First Published: May 20, 2015, 4:00 a.m.
