It’s been a banner year for new restaurants, from the biggest of steakhouses to the smallest bakery-cafes. Yet beyond the big hyped restaurants or the small under-the-radar spots, there are those that make a difference: They are the restaurants that go beyond to procure excellent ingredients. They are the restaurant menus we didn’t even know we’ve been craving. They are the swanky new spaces in a neighborhood that’s been clamoring for a new spot. From the suburbs to the East End, here they are: the new standout restaurants for 2018.
LeoGreta in Carnegie
When it opened: April.
LeoGreta opened in a neighborhood that appreciates the arrival of an affordable-yet-tailored spot with a menu of crowd-pleasers. Named for chef-owner Greg Alauzen’s late parents, Leon and Greta, the charming Italian-American spot announces throwback charm with its striped awning and plate-glass storefront. It offers good food to boot with a lunch-and-dinner menu of starters, salads, sandwiches, fresh pasta, and extras like greens and beans or house meatballs: a collection of humble red-sauce dishes done well at fair prices. I especially like the restaurant because it has heart. LeoGreta is now serving beer and wine. 301 Main St., Carnegie, 412-489-6382. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday.
Mediterra Cafe in Sewickley
When it opened: June.
Mediterra Cafe from owner Nick Ambeliotis offers bread made from wheat grown on his Arizona farm: one aspect that makes his loaves stand out. But it is also worth a drive for a daytime meal to enjoy this charming new fast-casual cafe, with a tempting menu of fine sandwiches, hearty soups, and things to eat with bread, such as baked eggs or a charcuterie board. The cafe also sells Italian ingredients like oils, vinegars, and pasta, along with hard-to-find cheeses that are worth getting excited about. Don’t miss the breakfast sandwich on brioche, Roman-style pizza or a cappuccino and a lemon tart. 430 Beaver St., Sewickley, 412-740-7064. Open 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.
Seasons in Etna
When it opened: October.
In an era where it’s hard to open a small restaurant without a pile of money and dreams of multiple restaurants, talented young chef David Buhlman pulls himself up by the bootstraps to open his dream: a modest fine-dining spot that feels of-the-moment, with fewer than 30 seats, and a relaxed vibe rather than a stuffiness that can so often afflict a restaurant that goes that route. Some dishes are impressive, with Mr. Buhlman using as many local ingredients as possible — no olive oil, and no lemon, for example. And it’s not crazy expensive: The four-course tastings are $65, available Thursdays only; a six-course menu for around $85; eight-courses for around $95; and the most elaborate chef’s tasting menu for $139. 372 Butler St., Etna, 412-781-1371. Open 5 to 10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday
Revival on Lincoln in Bellevue
When it opened: October.
Pair a neighborhood that was dry until 2015 and an ambitious resident who decides to renovate one of its landmark buildings and you get Revival on Lincoln, a newish sit-down restaurant serving beer, wine and cocktails. Chris Driscoll, an architecture buff and director of technology at Katz Graduate School of Business at the University of Pittsburgh, and John King, a longtime chef of Allegheny Country Club in Sewickley, now retired, have teamed up to bring the building back to life as part of a renaissance for the community.
Look for multiple rooms, stained glass, and fireplaces in the 1902 building; during the summer, there’s patio seating outside. The former chef at Southern Tier on the North Shore and Allegheny Country Club, Jamie Sola has created a menu of dishes including walleye ramen, pork tenderloin with smoked tomato compote and shrimp and lobster grits. 366 Lincoln Ave., Bellevue, 412-223-5715. Open 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4 to 10 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday.
Siempre Algo on the North Side
When it opened: August.
The first new restaurant in Pittsburgh’s next restaurant row on East Ohio Street, Siempre Algo opened in what had been a beloved dive bar that’s now a sleek, understated dining room with warm lighting in a space that’s neither too loud nor crowded. Most nights, the bar is alive with customers here after work or for a late Friday nightcap, drawn to an accessible wine and beer selections with lots of options under $10. In a food menu of snacks, mid-courses, and entrees, customers can find soft pretzels, deviled eggs, butternut squash soup and classics like ribeye and roast chicken. 414 E. Ohio St., North Side, 412-652-9968. Open Tuesday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to midnight.
Penn Cove Eatery and The Warren, Downtown
When it opened: February.
It’s the reopening of Penn Ave. Fish Downtown, with more emphasis on grab-and-go and a different name for the seafood side. As much I’m glad Penn Ave. Fish is back Downtown, I’m excited about the wine shop, the result of updated state laws that allow for shops and restaurants with a license to sell bottles of wine to go. Over at the Warren, partners Spencer Warren and Carrie Clayton are top bartenders in the city: There’s something to be said for getting a superlative cocktail from them for under $10, along with an unusual bottle of wine to drink at home. 245 Seventh St., Downtown, 412-201-5888. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. weekdays, noon on weekends.
Pie for Breakfast in Oakland
When it opened: September.
Chef-owner Trevett Hooper has made Pie for Breakfast a daytime-only restaurant since it first opened, yet even without dinner service, it remains a go-to for its value-driven, comfort-food menu that’s more pork chops and green beans than burgers and mac’n cheese. The menu averages about $7 before sides and add-ons, with listings like buttermilk pancakes, or two eggs and home fries served with salt-rising bread, a funky-scented, flavorful bread that originates in West Virginia. 200 N. Craig St., Oakland, 412-315-7342. Open 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily.
Driftwood Oven in Lawrenceville
When it opened: February.
This low-key pizza spot from Neil Blazin and Justin Vetter offers a menu of pizzas in two styles, sandwiches, beer, wine and cocktails in this update of a pizza parlor. A Bon Appetit top 50 restaurant for 2018, Driftwood Oven is sourcing good flours which translates to better-tasting crust that offers more nutritional value. Pair nice crust with ingredients like Pennsylvania-based Caputo Bros. mozzarella and it tastes good, too. Next up for January: A bread share. Stay tuned. 3615 Butler St., Lawrenceville, 412-251-0253. Open Wednesday to Friday from 5 to 10 p.m. Wednesday to Friday; 4 to 10 p.m Saturday and 1 to 7 p.m. Sunday.
Poulet Bleu in Lawrenceville
When it opened: February.
The Richard DeShantz Group opened its first restaurant outside of Downtown in February, a candle-lit neighborhood spot that aims to transport diners with the details such as blue-tiled floors, an Edith Piaf soundtrack, a French-inspired wine list, and bistro fare. Chef de cuisine Ryan Hart makes an enthralling French onion soup and an excellent version of steak frites that latter of which that can be dressed with bordelaise, bearnaise, Cognac pepper or a house sauce. Save room for dessert, particularly the made-to-order chocolate souffle with garnishes like creme Anglaise and cherry compote. 3519 Butler St., Lawrenceville, 412-325-3435. Open 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday and 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Lorelei in East Liberty
When it opened: May.
Brothers Matt and Pete Kurzweg along with Adam Henry — the group behind Squirrel Hill’s Hidden Harbor and Independent Brewing Co. — opened Lorelei in the spring: It’s a destination for German and German-inspired beer that’s reasonably priced, with compelling wine selections from Germany and Austria, and satisfying beer-garden fare from chef Jamilka Borges. Dip breadsticks in brandade for a snack. Order a braised lamb pie for a savory casual dinner. Or consider splitting raclette with friends, served with potatoes and cornichons. 124 S. Highland Ave., East Liberty, 412- 5 to 11 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 5 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.
Choolaah Indian BBQ in East Liberty
When it opened: January.
Owners and Pittsburgh residents Raji Sankar and Randhir Seth opened the Pittsburgh location of Choolaah in East Liberty in January, serving fast-casual Indian fare out of an open kitchen with four tandoor ovens that allow diners see how meats and breads are prepared. Following locations in northern Virginia, Cleveland and King of Prussia, Pa. the Pittsburgh location incorporates bold murals in a bright and inviting space. Look for menu items like variations on tikka masala, salads with paneer cheese, as well as the perfect balance bowls with plenty of veggies, tandoori wraps, samosas, chaats, and naan. 6114 Centre Ave., East Liberty, 412-503-7797. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Northeastern Kitchen in Squirrel Hill
When it opened: June.
Tucked in a basement on Forbes Avenue, this new restaurant serves regional Chinese fare that includes bread, dumplings, meats and fermented cabbage in a cuisine that can be hard to find even in cities with large Chinese communities, says New York critic for Eater NY, Robert Sietsema. Look for the cabbage dish called Mama Salad, a savory tofu skin (yuba) and chive plate, and hot pot stews like a chicken with mushroom, or sliced pork stew with sauerkraut. 5824 Forbes Ave., Squirrel Hill, 412-422-2888. Open noon to 9:30 p.m. daily.
Melissa McCart: mmccart@post-gazette.com
First Published: December 3, 2018, 12:00 p.m.