Readers of a certain age may recall a memorable early ’90s “Saturday Night Live” skit featuring Jerry Seinfeld as the host of a faux quiz that was a sendup of stand-up comedians of the era, all wearing monochromatic blazers and mock turtlenecks and asking rhetorical questions in sing-songy voices, including the skit’s catchphrase: “Who are the ad wizards who came up with that one?”
I’m reminded of this because for the fourth year in a row Taco Bell will continue one of its “Steal a base, steal a taco” promotions, in which all franchises in the United States will offer a free taco once a base has been stolen in the 2018 World Series, something that has happened in every fall classic for the past 74 years. So there’s no drama here. It would be news if it didn’t give away the tacos.
And spoiler alert, like nearly every “cult” fast food item people claim to love — the McRib, Chick-fil-A sandwiches, an In-N-Out animal style burger — they’re just fine at best and nothing special at all. Be honest. (Although, I wouldn’t mind owning one of those eateries next to a cannabis dispensary somewhere.)
So to that end, don’t wait around for a freebie — check out one of these four new-ish taco spots around Allegheny County.
Baby Loves Tacos
Forest Hills native and Woodland Hills graduate Zack Shell boomeranged back to Pittsburgh after spending 15 years in Philadelphia, first as a student at Temple, then working in the restaurant industry around the city, including a few well-regarded taco and burrito joints.
A new father and husband, he was intent on bringing his taco prowess back to his hometown, and he did pop-ups, private events and catering before finding a vacant Liberty Avenue storefront in Bloomfield and inking a deal.
Despite a few delays, he opened earlier this year and has quickly become a neighborhood favorite, offering the classics — such as chicken and carne asada — along with veg-friendly options such as barbecue mushrooms and roasted carrots.
4508 Liberty Ave., Bloomfield; www.babylovestacospgh.com.
Bull River Taco
A person with a wide enough wingspan could easily touch both walls at this pocket-sized Squirrel Hill shop. It doesn’t even have seats — just places to stand and mow down the tacos that are in your hand in about 90 seconds to two minutes after ordering.
The city location opened a little over a year ago — its original location is on Route 51 in Pleasant Hills — in the former Waffallonia space (which moved next door), and the aroma invites from across the street.
Tacos are $3 a pop. The pork here had a nice light whisper of smoke, enhanced by the house “bull’s-eye” sauce (chipotle ranch), and the crispy tortillas were appreciated.
1707 Murray Ave., Squirrel Hill; 412-421-8226; www.bullrivertaco.com.
La Poblanito
In the pavement lot of a former BP station beyond the gray overhead canopy that used to cover the gas pumps on this otherwise drab strip of road in Coraopolis, a young man works an outdoor griddle under a bright red awning, chopping and sizzling meat that creates large clouds of hissing steam and fragrant smoke, giving a Technicolor blast to the senses.
Oscar Reyes came to Pittsburgh from Pueblo, Mexico, a decade ago and started a roofing and construction company. He lives in Coraopolis now and said necessity was the mother of invention for this repurposed service station.
“It’s really hard to look for good places to eat,” he said. “We’re always looking for our culture, but we are always working. So I’ve been thinking maybe to come up with something quick and affordable, a grocery to grab and go — my guys, they just want to eat something after work at night.”
He opened La Poblanita — which literally means a young woman from Pueblo — about 18 months ago. The inside is a Mexican grocery and butchery. You order at the register, the clerk writes it down on a Post-it note that you take back outside to the grill man.
Warm corn tortillas and tender seasoned meats like tongue, rib-eye and chorizo (all $2.50 to $3) create highly crushable tacos so good, you may make another order for the ride home that will taunt you with their scent the whole way.
It’s worth-the-drive good, even sitting to eat outside at a picnic table on a sunny but crisp 46-degree afternoon. For those inclined to eat indoors, a second location opened earlier this year inside the Robinson Mall.
Word to the wise: beware the face-melting roasted jalapenos in the condiments station.
801 Fourth Ave., Coraopolis; 412-716-7768; www.facebook.com/La-Poblanita-Mexican-Market-Taco-Stand-1877519562464754/.
Taco Diablo
The only full-service restaurant in this grouping, Taco Diablo made the leap from a la pinta-sized shop when it made the move a few doors down and across the street on the Beverly Road business corridor in Mt. Lebanon.
Jeff Iovino, whose namesake Café IO is on the same block, is the owner, and he has employed veteran chef Adam Manculich, who made consistently creative tacos at the bygone Yo Rita on the South Side (think Tako before there was such a place).
A Fried Rock Shrimp taco ($7) was delicious, with a spicy salsa and a house hot sauce, as was the carnitas ($5), with rich pulled pork, queso fresco, crema, cream, salsa verde and fresh jalapeño.
Crisp and tangy pickled vegetables complemented the clean flavor of halibut ceviche ($11), and freshly made chips were perfect with a guacamole so fluffy it may have been whipped ($7).
The back wall is a colorful mural of Mexican-style skulls, including one with the Golden Triangle embedded within. The bar is comfortable and the beer selection is serviceable, as is a small slate of cocktails, although an otherwise nice little selection of tequilas and mezcal could use some organization.
297 Beverly Road, Mt. Lebanon; www.tacodiablopgh.com.
Dan Gigler: dgigler@post-gazette.com; Twitter @gigs412.
First Published: October 18, 2018, 10:00 a.m.
Updated: October 18, 2018, 1:40 p.m.
