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Bruce Pegg of Mount Oliver puts chili and cheese on a hot dog while working at The Original Hot Dog Shop, Oakland.
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Hot Dog! Exploring Pittsburgh by way of an American favorite

Stephanie Strasburg/Post-Gazette

Hot Dog! Exploring Pittsburgh by way of an American favorite

“Suckin’ on chili dogs, outside the Tastee Freeze ...” — John Mellencamp

As ever, it’s been another simmering summer, steeped in the tumult of a vital American institution.

There has been controversy. Bitter and rancorous divide. The dissolution of long-standing alliances.

And it’s all over hot dogs.

The controversy arose during the annual Nathan’s Fourth of July Hot Dog Eating Contest on Coney Island when reigning champ Joey Chestnut retained his title but was initially somehow undercounted by 10 — 10! — hot dogs consumed. One wonders if the 2017 Steelers-Patriots refs were involved.

That bitter divide? That’d be the annual tradition — related to coverage of said contest — when snooty food writers and TV show hosts trot out the utter rubbish that ketchup doesn’t belong on hot dogs. To which we’d say in our best Michael Keaton voice, “Listen here, Jack, this is Pittsburgh. We perfected ketchup, and we’ll put it on a wagyu steak if we damn well please, let alone a hot dog.”

And the broken alliance comes between Costco and every customer who’s enjoyed the visceral pleasure of the $1.50 Polish hot dog from its snack bar after an afternoon of buying 72-roll packs of toilet paper, drums of olive oil and underwear by the gross. The announcement that it’d be replaced on the menu with healthy options — like an acai bowl — was met with howls of internet outrage across the nation.

Despite all of that, it’s time to come together.

Wednesday is National Hot Dog Day, and to that end, we’ve endeavored to explore some of Pittsburgh’s best purveyors of America’s most iconic summertime food.


Area hot dog shop locations



Joe Schepis, 40, of Carnegie prepares an order for the drive-thru window at Brighton Hot Dog Shoppe in Green Tree on July 13, 2018.(Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)

Brighton Hot Dog Shoppe

Brighton is the only chain in this group, which means customers can expect consistency among its 12 locations in Western Pennsylvania and Ohio. Another unique feature among the spots on this list is that several Brighton locations also have a drive-thru. At the Green Tree location, Tony Kurtz, who owns the restaurant with his wife, Joann, said about half his business comes from that window. The convenience means quicker gratification from the all-beef hot dogs — made specifically for Brighton. And if you love the chili, it also can be purchased on its own with beans-in. — Anthony Conroy

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The bacon and cheddar hot dog and the Chicago hot dog at D's Six Pax & Dogz on S. Braddock Avenue in Regent Square, pictured on Friday, July 13, 2018.(Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)

D’s SixPax & Dogz

Just as its name suggests, D’s gives equal play to both hot dogs and beer, but the Regent Square business has more of a bar vibe than a traditional hot dog stand. Still, that doesn’t detract from the dogs, as D’s offers several gourmet selections with your choice of bun (poppyseed, whole wheat and corn tortilla) and the type of meat within that bun (all-beef Vienna hot dog, veggie and turkey dog). From there, menu options include hot dogs with creamy avocado (the Chihuahua), pineapple (Angry Tiki) or deep fried (the Sizzle). (1118 S. Braddock Ave., Pittsburgh 15218) — AC

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Gravy, cheese, hot sauce, and ketchup accompany french fries and chili cheese dogs at The Original Hot Dog Shop on Tuesday, July 10, 2018, in Oakland.(Stephanie Strasburg/Post-Gazette)

Essie’s Original Hot Dog Shop
(aka “The O”)

The iconic neon lights, Kosher dogs and rafts of fries have beckoned Oakland’s town and gown — and the rest of Pittsburgh — since brothers Sid and Moe Simon opened their hot dog shop in the shadow of Forbes Field, a few months before Bill Mazeroski hit the greatest home run in baseball history. The brothers have passed on, but the business remains in the family, and they maintain the glory of an absolute Pittsburgh icon that, in addition to having the Kosher option, uses a custom pork and beef blend from Silver Star Meats. Fast food abounds in Oakland, and, frankly, shame on the University of Pittsburgh student who eschews genuine history for Chipotle or Five Guys. (3901 Forbes Ave., Pittsburgh 15213) — Dan Gigler 

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Frankie's in Lawrenceville on Tuesday, July 10, 2018.(Andrew Stein/Post-Gazette)

Frankie’s Extra Long

This Lawrenceville institution is a reflection of much of the neighborhood around it — old-fashioned, reliable, solid. It cedes fanciness to its Butler Street neighbor (see Franktuary below), but that’s OK. Frankie’s, while also known for its hot Italian sausage sandwiches, is a working-man’s hot dog shop, and its footlongs have been satisfying generations, whether they be mill workers or millennials. (3535 Butler St., Pittsburgh 15201) — AC

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The finishing touches are added to hot dogs on Tuesday, July 10, 2018, at Franktuary in Lawrenceville.(Andrew Stein/Post-Gazette)

Franktuary

The yang to just-down-the-street Frankie’s yin (or, better yet, yinz), this Lawrenceville hot dog haven with a host’s stand, church pew seats and grass-fed beef hot dogs might smack of new Pittsburgh pretension — at face value anyway, but it’s a terrific tale of entrepreneurial elbow grease. From its modest beginnings 14 years ago as Hot Dogma in the basement of Downtown’s Trinity Cathedral, the owners have created a true destination with truly gourmet dogs and a create-your-own menu of 62 toppings that range from the traditional — chili and sauerkraut — to the downright crazy — Trix cereal or a BBQ zebra tarantula. (3810 Butler St., Pittsburgh 15201) — DG

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Two chili and cheese hot dogs (complete with Schneider's Iced Tea) at Hank's Hotdogs Too on Brookline Boulevard in Brookline.(Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)

Hank’s Hotdogs Too

Full disclosure: I’m a Brookline boy, so Hank’s has been one of my go-to’s since the late 1980s when it was on West Liberty Avenue. Loyal patrons followed Hank’s to its current spot on Brookline Boulevard after it — and its decades-old chili sauce recipe — was saved by owner Colleen Griffiths-Fignar and her late husband, Joe. Hank’s is a no-frills hot dog stand, but that chili — when served with an all-beef dog and always on a fresh steamed bun — never disappoints. That chili, with the most finely ground beef around, is made with love (and in 30-pound batches twice a week) and a wink, as its secret recipe is as guarded as the Colonel’s. (919 Brookline Blvd., Pittsburgh 15226) — AC

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Troy Kallenborn, 26, of West Mifflin, holds out two cheese-covered hot dogs at Jim's Famous Sauce in West Mifflin on July 10, 2018.(Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)

Jim’s Famous Sauce

This Mon Valley mainstay traces its roots back to Greek-born Tsambikos “Jim” Damianos, who came to Pittsburgh by way of Turkey in the early 1890s. After a World War I tour with the Army, he opened a small restaurant and grocery in McKeesport in 1927. After World War II, the business moved to its current West Mifflin location where it evolved into a hot dog shop that serves up a true regional specialty: a Smith’s hot dog that’s grilled then plopped into a bun and topped with cheese slices and briefly broiled. The bun is crisp, the cheese is molten and browned, and the dog is ensconced in the signature sweet, smoky, spicy and acidic sauce with a ham and tomato base. (2600 Skyline Drive, West Mifflin 15122) — DG

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Dan Gigler's hot dogs ordered at Lock & Dam Dog Shop on Tuesday, July 10, 2018, in Morningside.(Andrew Stein/Post-Gazette)

Lock & Dam Dog Shop

In a memorable “Ferris Bueller’s Day Off” scene, the titular character pretended to be Abe Froman, the “Sausage King of Chicago.” But Ricky Zenk may well be the “Hot Dog Scion of Pittsburgh.” His parents purchased the aforementioned Frankie’s in 1989, and he started helping out there as a 6-year-old. After flirting with a post-college office job, in February 2016 he opened the Lock & Dam Dog Shop in what was a longtime Tastee Freeze in Morningside in a gravel lot perched on a hill above Allegheny River Lock and Dam No. 2 and the Highland Park Bridge. (7331 Butler St., Pittsburgh 15206) — DG

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From left: Rich Fest, of Castle Shannon, Raheene Dodd, of Munhall, Karen "Nana" Dobrzynski, of Castle Shannon, and Derrick Coto, of the North Side, stand in front of the hot dog sign at Nana's New York Hot Dogs on Federal Street in the North Side.(Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)

Nana’s North Side Diner

Federal Street was once a focal point of frankfurters with multiple shops in the blocks just off North Avenue, including Nana’s — which originally opened in 1964 and is as old as current owner Karen “Nana” Dobrzynski. She and her husband, Rich, purchased the legacy business five years ago, and they, along with their since-day-one employees Raheene Dodd and Derrick Coto, create a family atmosphere where every pint-sized visitor gets a “hug and a kiss” — a Little Hugs drink and a Hershey’s Kiss — with their hot dogs. “Nana” makes their signature chili in 20-pound batches, a passed down recipe with no measurements from the original Greek owners. “Like a witch stirring a cauldron,” she laughs. (1110 Federal St., Pittsburgh 15212) — DG

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A pair of hot dogs and a diner burger at Shorty's Lunch in Washington, Pa.(Dan Gigler/Post-Gazette)

Shorty’s Lunch

Sit down in the old-timey booths or at the lunch counter, place your order, and they’ll shout it over to the grill and in about 90 seconds you’ll have a plate full of piping hot, simple deliciousness: In this case a custom beef and pork blend from Albert’s Meats in nearby Taylortown, topped with a chili that’s more like a spread, mustard and super finely chopped onions that combine into an excellent funky taste. It is sensory perfection in a Nickle’s bun for a mere buck-ninety at this Washington, Pa., spot. (34 W. Chestnut St., Washington 15301) — DG

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Denny and Melody Scott of Wilkins stand in front of Wiener World in Downtown Pittsburgh on Thursday, July 12, 2018.(Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)

Wiener World

In the midst of a 53-year run, this Downtown legend and survivor of escalating real estate prices has new life under the stewardship of Dennis and Melody Scott, who took over the business last year. They updated the kitchen and added a deli. But, the classics remain unchanged: neon lights and a quarter-pound Armour cheese dog and arguably the best milkshakes and soft-serve ice cream in the Golden Triangle. (626 Smithfield St., Pittsburgh 15222) — DG

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Lee Yovanof, 63, of Whitehall, owner of Yovi's Chicago Hot Dogs in Downtown, chats with a customer on July 10, 2018.(Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)

Yovi’s

Lee Yovakof emigrated from Macedonia to Chicago and learned the ways of that city’s fabled hot dogs. Then he met and married a Pittsburgh girl and “emigrated” again, from the Windy City to the Steel City in the late 1980s, and brought a completely unique concept here — the Chicago dog. Yovi’s was first on Liberty Avenue for 19 years and is now off Market Square in a downstairs temple to “da Bears, da Bulls and da Cubs.” With their trademark tomato, onions, relish mustard and sport peppers, Chicago dogs aren’t as polarizing as Chicago deep dish pizza, but they’re an acquired taste, and you’ll nary find a more faithful representation than here. (100 Fifth Ave., Pittsburgh 15222) — DG

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Dan Gigler: dgigler@post-gazette.com; Twitter @gigs412. Anthony Conroy: aconroy@post-gazette.com.

First Published: July 18, 2018, 12:00 p.m.

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Bruce Pegg of Mount Oliver puts chili and cheese on a hot dog while working at The Original Hot Dog Shop, Oakland.  (Stephanie Strasburg/Post-Gazette)
Anthony Conroy, left, and Dan Gigler after the third stop on their tour of Pittsburgh hot dogs on July 10 in Morningside: Lock & Dam Dog Shop near the Pittsburgh Zoo.  (Andrew Stein/Post-Gazette)
Gravy, cheese, hot sauce, and ketchup accompany fries, chili cheese dogs, and root beers at The Original Hot Dog Shop on Tuesday, July 10, 2018, in Oakland.  (Stephanie Strasburg/Post-Gazette)
Dusk falls on The Original Hot Dog Shop in this long exposure on Tuesday, July 10, 2018, in Oakland.  (Stephanie Strasburg/Post-Gazette)
The outside of Hank's Hotdogs Too on Brookline Boulevard in Brookline on July 12, 2018.  (Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)
Two chili and cheese hot dogs (complete with Schneider's Iced Tea) at Hank's Hotdogs Too on Brookline Boulevard.  (Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)
Tony and Joann Kurtz own the Brighton Hot Dog Shoppe on Noblestown Road in Green Tree.  (Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)
Joe Schepis, 40, of Carnegie prepares an order for the drive-thru window at Brighton Hot Dog Shoppe in Green Tree on July 13, 2018.  (Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)
Lenny Darby, 55, left, of Crafton and Joe Schepis, 40, of Carnegie prepare food at Brighton Hot Dog Shoppe in Green Tree on July 13, 2018.  (Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)
Joe Schepis, 40, of Carnegie prepares an order of hot dogs at Brighton Hot Dog Shoppe in Green Tree on July 13, 2018.  (Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)
The Chicago hot dog at D's SixPax & Dogz in Regent Square.  (Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)
Inside D's SixPax & Dogz, the atmosphere is more pub than hot dog shop.  (Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)
A pair of hot dogs and a diner burger at Shorty's Lunch in Washington, Pa.  (Dan Gigler/Post-Gazette)
The exterior of D's SixPax & Dogz.
Anthony Conroy shows off a sloppy chili-cheese hot dog at Wiener World, Downtown.  (Dan Gigler/Post-Gazette)
The Pittsburgh hot dog from Franktuary in Lawrenceville. It is grass-fed beef frank topped with house-made mustard sour cream sauce, slaw and a deep-fried pierogi.  (Andrew Stein/Post-Gazette)
Anthony Conroy enjoys the Western hot dog from Franktuary in Lawrenceville.  (Andrew Stein/Post-Gazette)
The finishing touches are added to hot dogs at Franktuary in Lawrenceville.  (Andrew Stein/Post-Gazette)
Frankie's in Lawrenceville was the first stop of the day for the tour of Pittsburgh hot dogs on Tuesday, July 10, 2018.  (Andrew Stein/Post-Gazette)
Dan Gigler's selection of hot dogs to taste at Lock & Dam Dog Shop in Morningside.  (Andrew Stein/Post-Gazette)
Anthony Conroy's custom hot dog topped with a fried egg at Lock & Dam Dog Shop in Morningside.  (Andrew Stein/Post-Gazette)
The exterior of Shorty's Lunch in Washington, Pa.  (Dan Gigler/Post-Gazette)
Two perfectly toasted cheese-covered dogs are ready to be plated at Jim's Special Sauce in West Mifflin.  (Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)
Troy Kallenborn, 26, and Mike Bosway, 39, both of West Mifflin, stand in the kitchen of Jim's Famous Sauce in West Mifflin.  (Anthony Conroy / Post-Gazette)
Lee Yovanof, 63, of Whitehall, owner of Yovi's Chicago Hot Dogs, Downtown, chats with a customer on July 10, 2018. Mr. Yovanof was born in Macedonia and lived in Chicago before moving to Pittsburgh in the 1980s.  (Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)
Two Chicago-style hot dogs at Yovi's Chicago Hot Dogs, Downtown.  (Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)
Hot dogs stay warm on the grill at Nana's New York Hot Dogs on the North Side.  (Anthony Conroy/Post-Gazette)
The Post-Gazette's Dan Gigler, left, talks to Karen "Nana" Dobrzynski and Raheene Dodd at Nana's New York Hot Dogs on the North Side.  (Anthony Conroy / Post-Gazette)
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