“Suckin’ on chili dogs, outside the Tastee Freeze ...” — John Mellencamp
As ever, it’s been another simmering summer, steeped in the tumult of a vital American institution.
There has been controversy. Bitter and rancorous divide. The dissolution of long-standing alliances.
And it’s all over hot dogs.
The controversy arose during the annual Nathan’s Fourth of July Hot Dog Eating Contest on Coney Island when reigning champ Joey Chestnut retained his title but was initially somehow undercounted by 10 — 10! — hot dogs consumed. One wonders if the 2017 Steelers-Patriots refs were involved.
That bitter divide? That’d be the annual tradition — related to coverage of said contest — when snooty food writers and TV show hosts trot out the utter rubbish that ketchup doesn’t belong on hot dogs. To which we’d say in our best Michael Keaton voice, “Listen here, Jack, this is Pittsburgh. We perfected ketchup, and we’ll put it on a wagyu steak if we damn well please, let alone a hot dog.”
And the broken alliance comes between Costco and every customer who’s enjoyed the visceral pleasure of the $1.50 Polish hot dog from its snack bar after an afternoon of buying 72-roll packs of toilet paper, drums of olive oil and underwear by the gross. The announcement that it’d be replaced on the menu with healthy options — like an acai bowl — was met with howls of internet outrage across the nation.
Despite all of that, it’s time to come together.
Wednesday is National Hot Dog Day, and to that end, we’ve endeavored to explore some of Pittsburgh’s best purveyors of America’s most iconic summertime food.
Area hot dog shop locations
Brighton is the only chain in this group, which means customers can expect consistency among its 12 locations in Western Pennsylvania and Ohio. Another unique feature among the spots on this list is that several Brighton locations also have a drive-thru. At the Green Tree location, Tony Kurtz, who owns the restaurant with his wife, Joann, said about half his business comes from that window. The convenience means quicker gratification from the all-beef hot dogs — made specifically for Brighton. And if you love the chili, it also can be purchased on its own with beans-in. — Anthony Conroy
🌭
Just as its name suggests, D’s gives equal play to both hot dogs and beer, but the Regent Square business has more of a bar vibe than a traditional hot dog stand. Still, that doesn’t detract from the dogs, as D’s offers several gourmet selections with your choice of bun (poppyseed, whole wheat and corn tortilla) and the type of meat within that bun (all-beef Vienna hot dog, veggie and turkey dog). From there, menu options include hot dogs with creamy avocado (the Chihuahua), pineapple (Angry Tiki) or deep fried (the Sizzle). (1118 S. Braddock Ave., Pittsburgh 15218) — AC
🌭
Essie’s Original Hot Dog Shop
(aka “The O”)
The iconic neon lights, Kosher dogs and rafts of fries have beckoned Oakland’s town and gown — and the rest of Pittsburgh — since brothers Sid and Moe Simon opened their hot dog shop in the shadow of Forbes Field, a few months before Bill Mazeroski hit the greatest home run in baseball history. The brothers have passed on, but the business remains in the family, and they maintain the glory of an absolute Pittsburgh icon that, in addition to having the Kosher option, uses a custom pork and beef blend from Silver Star Meats. Fast food abounds in Oakland, and, frankly, shame on the University of Pittsburgh student who eschews genuine history for Chipotle or Five Guys. (3901 Forbes Ave., Pittsburgh 15213) — Dan Gigler
🌭
This Lawrenceville institution is a reflection of much of the neighborhood around it — old-fashioned, reliable, solid. It cedes fanciness to its Butler Street neighbor (see Franktuary below), but that’s OK. Frankie’s, while also known for its hot Italian sausage sandwiches, is a working-man’s hot dog shop, and its footlongs have been satisfying generations, whether they be mill workers or millennials. (3535 Butler St., Pittsburgh 15201) — AC
🌭
The yang to just-down-the-street Frankie’s yin (or, better yet, yinz), this Lawrenceville hot dog haven with a host’s stand, church pew seats and grass-fed beef hot dogs might smack of new Pittsburgh pretension — at face value anyway, but it’s a terrific tale of entrepreneurial elbow grease. From its modest beginnings 14 years ago as Hot Dogma in the basement of Downtown’s Trinity Cathedral, the owners have created a true destination with truly gourmet dogs and a create-your-own menu of 62 toppings that range from the traditional — chili and sauerkraut — to the downright crazy — Trix cereal or a BBQ zebra tarantula. (3810 Butler St., Pittsburgh 15201) — DG
🌭
Full disclosure: I’m a Brookline boy, so Hank’s has been one of my go-to’s since the late 1980s when it was on West Liberty Avenue. Loyal patrons followed Hank’s to its current spot on Brookline Boulevard after it — and its decades-old chili sauce recipe — was saved by owner Colleen Griffiths-Fignar and her late husband, Joe. Hank’s is a no-frills hot dog stand, but that chili — when served with an all-beef dog and always on a fresh steamed bun — never disappoints. That chili, with the most finely ground beef around, is made with love (and in 30-pound batches twice a week) and a wink, as its secret recipe is as guarded as the Colonel’s. (919 Brookline Blvd., Pittsburgh 15226) — AC
🌭
This Mon Valley mainstay traces its roots back to Greek-born Tsambikos “Jim” Damianos, who came to Pittsburgh by way of Turkey in the early 1890s. After a World War I tour with the Army, he opened a small restaurant and grocery in McKeesport in 1927. After World War II, the business moved to its current West Mifflin location where it evolved into a hot dog shop that serves up a true regional specialty: a Smith’s hot dog that’s grilled then plopped into a bun and topped with cheese slices and briefly broiled. The bun is crisp, the cheese is molten and browned, and the dog is ensconced in the signature sweet, smoky, spicy and acidic sauce with a ham and tomato base. (2600 Skyline Drive, West Mifflin 15122) — DG
🌭
In a memorable “Ferris Bueller’s Day Off” scene, the titular character pretended to be Abe Froman, the “Sausage King of Chicago.” But Ricky Zenk may well be the “Hot Dog Scion of Pittsburgh.” His parents purchased the aforementioned Frankie’s in 1989, and he started helping out there as a 6-year-old. After flirting with a post-college office job, in February 2016 he opened the Lock & Dam Dog Shop in what was a longtime Tastee Freeze in Morningside in a gravel lot perched on a hill above Allegheny River Lock and Dam No. 2 and the Highland Park Bridge. (7331 Butler St., Pittsburgh 15206) — DG
🌭
Federal Street was once a focal point of frankfurters with multiple shops in the blocks just off North Avenue, including Nana’s — which originally opened in 1964 and is as old as current owner Karen “Nana” Dobrzynski. She and her husband, Rich, purchased the legacy business five years ago, and they, along with their since-day-one employees Raheene Dodd and Derrick Coto, create a family atmosphere where every pint-sized visitor gets a “hug and a kiss” — a Little Hugs drink and a Hershey’s Kiss — with their hot dogs. “Nana” makes their signature chili in 20-pound batches, a passed down recipe with no measurements from the original Greek owners. “Like a witch stirring a cauldron,” she laughs. (1110 Federal St., Pittsburgh 15212) — DG
🌭
Sit down in the old-timey booths or at the lunch counter, place your order, and they’ll shout it over to the grill and in about 90 seconds you’ll have a plate full of piping hot, simple deliciousness: In this case a custom beef and pork blend from Albert’s Meats in nearby Taylortown, topped with a chili that’s more like a spread, mustard and super finely chopped onions that combine into an excellent funky taste. It is sensory perfection in a Nickle’s bun for a mere buck-ninety at this Washington, Pa., spot. (34 W. Chestnut St., Washington 15301) — DG
🌭
In the midst of a 53-year run, this Downtown legend and survivor of escalating real estate prices has new life under the stewardship of Dennis and Melody Scott, who took over the business last year. They updated the kitchen and added a deli. But, the classics remain unchanged: neon lights and a quarter-pound Armour cheese dog and arguably the best milkshakes and soft-serve ice cream in the Golden Triangle. (626 Smithfield St., Pittsburgh 15222) — DG
🌭
Lee Yovakof emigrated from Macedonia to Chicago and learned the ways of that city’s fabled hot dogs. Then he met and married a Pittsburgh girl and “emigrated” again, from the Windy City to the Steel City in the late 1980s, and brought a completely unique concept here — the Chicago dog. Yovi’s was first on Liberty Avenue for 19 years and is now off Market Square in a downstairs temple to “da Bears, da Bulls and da Cubs.” With their trademark tomato, onions, relish mustard and sport peppers, Chicago dogs aren’t as polarizing as Chicago deep dish pizza, but they’re an acquired taste, and you’ll nary find a more faithful representation than here. (100 Fifth Ave., Pittsburgh 15222) — DG
🌭
Dan Gigler: dgigler@post-gazette.com; Twitter @gigs412. Anthony Conroy: aconroy@post-gazette.com.
First Published: July 18, 2018, 12:00 p.m.