Sam Wong was more than just the polite Chinese man who quietly strolled down Dawson Street every day, his hands clasped behind his back.

Behind the smile he threw his Oakland neighbors was an example of the American dream: an immigrant with a sixth-grade education who eventually owned his own business and sent his four children to college.

"He was the type of father who would lead by example," said son Danny Wong, of Oakland.

Jew Soon "Sam" Wong, of Oakland, died Friday from multiple health problems. He was 83.

Like many immigrants, Mr. Wong left his country looking for a better life.

He came from China's Guangzhou Province to Pittsburgh in 1950 and started by working in the laundry business with other Chinese. After a few years, he switched to Chinese restaurants, learning not only how to prepare American-Chinese food, but, more importantly, how to run a business.

In 1977, with a wife and four children, Mr. Wong earned enough to take over Bill Ung's Tea Garden, a Squirrel Hill Chinese restaurant.

But owning a restaurant meant hours away from home. For the first five years, Mr. Wong and his wife worked seven days a week from early in the morning to about 1 a.m., sometimes 2 a.m.

"Even though he wasn't around as much as he liked, when he was around he showed us love and affection," said his son.

As Mr. Wong's children grew, they began to help out on weeknights and weekends, busing tables, washing dishes, cooking.

But they weren't there just to lend a hand, but to keep the family close, something Mr. Wong stressed.

"He taught us that family comes first, but you should be able to juggle everything else, just like my dad did," said his son.

Later on, Mr. Wong gave himself a day off, which he used to be with his children.

Daughter Helen Wong, of Oakland, said the family would shop at the mall or eat at Chinese restaurants to check out the competition.

Eventually, the Tea Garden, which advertised itself as offering "the best egg rolls in Pittsburgh," enabled Mr. Wong to send his four children to the University of Pittsburgh.

"They did everything for us kids," said son Ken Wong, of Oakland. "They relied on us to make sure we behaved ourselves and take education seriously."

After 40-plus years in the restaurant business and with his children taken care of, Mr. Wong retired in 1997.

That's when he found time for the frequent walks through the neighborhood, stopping for hot coffee and an egg McMuffin or some lottery tickets at the corner market.

Other days he tended to his vegetable garden or planted fruit trees in his children's yards.

And even though he wasn't in the restaurant business, Mr. Wong kept his passion for food. His favorite place to dine was a Chinese buffet in the North Hills.

It wasn't the real stuff, but if he wanted authentic Chinese he'd cook it at home, said Danny Wong.

In addition to his sons and daughter, Mr. Wong is survived by another daughter, Amy, and his wife, Bo Kou, of Oakland; and brother Ng Lin Chan of China.

Visitation is today from 2 to 4 and 7 to 9 p.m. at the John N. Elachko Funeral Home, 3447 Dawson St., Oakland. The funeral service will be held tomorrow at 10 a.m. at the funeral home.

First Published: September 26, 2005, 4:00 a.m.