Got roller skates? Toss them in the trunk when you head west to check out the new Market District Supermarket. Billed as the largest food store in Western Pennsylvania, it's the jewel in Giant Eagle's crown of 220 supermarkets. The grand opening celebrations kick off tomorrow in the new Settlers Ridge shopping center in Robinson.

The PG wangled a sneak peek last week.

The supermarket is laid out in an efficient rectangle. Savvy architects, or possibly frustrated shoppers, designed the store with many points of entry. Shoppers can enter the area in which they choose to shop without having to plow through the whole store. And if you don't like lines, no worries, because there are 31 cash registers.

The produce department is housed in what the honchos are calling a Great Hall, though it's really an exposed-strut, high-ceiling area, not to be confused with the opulence of Harrod's in London. With tons of domestic, specialty and locally grown fruits and vegetables, many of which are organic, this area is the centerpiece. It features a hydroponic garden, currently growing 80 heads of butter lettuce. Want one? The aqua farmer of the day will pick and pack it for you.

To one side of produce is the everyday world of groceries: cans, boxes, packages and bags. Aisles are short and signage is large, so shoppers can see front to back with no long walks.

On the other side of produce is a world of ready-to-eat food. Call it a food court on steroids. Call it destination dining. Market District calls it The Cafe. This is what you are coming to see.

• Smoke and Fire Slow-Roasting Rotisserie. Here you'll find smoked ribs, brisket, chicken and other meats. When the meat department is featuring game such as venison, elk or bison, it will be available for purchase on the rotisserie so shoppers can snag a taste. "Try before you buy" is good marketing.

• Rosti Bar/Crepe Bar. Once Americans taste rosti, Swiss hash-brown-ish potato cakes, they'll wonder how they've missed them. The potatoes are a good match for anything off the rotisserie. French crepes have both savory and sweet fillings, and all are made to order.

• Pizza Bar. This twice-baked pizza has a twist. You choose a lightly baked pizza, then it's popped back into the oven for the flame-licked finish. It comes out browned and gooey with cheese. Like all the food in The Cafe, it is made fresh in the store.

• DIY Bars. Here, individual walk-around bars include salad, hot and cold faves, toppings, comfort food, and international dishes. Buy to take home, or better yet, eat in the store. You won't be eating out of a plastic-covered "clamshell" but on china plates with real flatware. Take your food upstairs to the mezzanine where there's Cafe seating.

• Asian Street Food Bar. A Singapore sampler includes specialties from the tandoori oven, peanut-sauced dishes from the satay grill, stir fries from the woks and fresh-baked naan.

• Sushi Bar. Sushi is now an American favorite. Find Japanese maki rolls, nigiri and sashimi. Have a bento box for a lunchtime treat.

The Cafe also has a sandwich counter, a bakery, and a gelato station (caramel coffee and coconut basil are superb). The extensive cheese and charcuterie shop stocks some local producers, including Parma Sausage.

With any luck, you'll still be able to walk, or waddle, around the rest of the store after you graze, snack and eat.

Housewares is just behind the produce in an area bigger than some small kitchenware stores. In addition to a wall of cooking utensils, there's a rack of Lodge iron skillets and griddles, a display of Le Creuset cooking pots and loads of kitchen aprons, mitts, do-dads and gadgets.

Nearby, the chef-demonstration kitchen seats 40, and two huge flat-screen monitors ensure that you won't miss a slice or a chop. Upstairs, the cooking school gives demonstrations as well as hands-on classes. Martin Yan's gonna love it.

Laura Shapira Karet, Giant Eagle's senior executive vice president and chief strategy officer, said from the store yesterday that picking her favorite part would be like naming a favorite part of a baby. But she confessed a powerful affection for the chocolate-covered marshmallows.

She noted, "This store does not just appeal to foodies," but anyone who loves good food, whether it's exotic seafood or "the best" ham sandwich.

These are food items and concepts collected from all over (rosti they found in Toronto) in a quest to create "the best food store in North America," she said, noting that the store will continue to change and evolve. "We want this to be an innovation center for the company."

An olive oil station, and this is my favorite part, does not have mere single bottles for sampling. The oil is stored in and dispensed from two-handled metal urns with a spigot. The Italian urns known as fustis hold extra-virgin olive oil from Italy, Spain, Tunisia, Australia and Chile. Other fustis hold a variety of vinegars. A tasting bar with bread and cheese allows you to sample. Then, buy an empty cork-topped bottle and fill 'er up. Later, bring the bottle back for a refill.

Getting weary? Really? You haven't even seen the groceries. The jarred pasta sauce display takes up shelf space to rival many a mom-and-pop store.

See the rest of the super supermarket next time. But for now, maybe it's time to sit down with a beer. Back in The Cafe, choose from 250 craft and specialty beers (maximum two to a customer, please, eaten with food, or up to two six-packs to go). Then wander over to the rotisserie for some brisket, pick up potato cakes across the way, be sure to snag a cupcake and enjoy on the mezzanine. Afterwards, you can stop by the in-house pharmacy and pick up Tums and Lipitor.

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