For nearly a decade, the city's school children were denied mashed potatoes.

Even the instant kind.

Elementary students don't like foods to squish together, and the Pittsburgh Public Schools' meal-packaging line, installed in 1999, worked only with a one-compartment paper tray.

So mashed potatoes disappeared from the menu until this school year, after food services director Michael Peck found a multi-compartment plastic tray that worked on the packaging line.

Mr. Peck said that's one of the ways he's tried to improve the nutritional quality, taste and appearance of the meals his department serves at 66 schools and 18 early-childhood centers. He says there's still room for improvement, and a team of Carnegie Mellon University graduate students and a group of chefs have jumped in with suggestions.

The students at Carnegie Mellon's School of Public Policy and Management, part of the Heinz College, analyzed the department and made several recommendations, such as tightening the nutritional requirements of food purchased by competitive bid, obtaining freshly prepared dishes such as salsa from local partners and ramping up marketing to improve sales.

Meanwhile, Barbara Ferguson, a Morningside parent and pastry chef, wants the district to reduce the processed foods -- such as chicken nuggets, chicken patties and cheese sticks -- that frequently appear on the menu. She's assembling a group of fellow chefs to advise Mr. Peck on developing healthier, tastier meals.

While district cooking facilities are minimal -- Mr. Peck's department is set up not to cook from scratch, but to package individual servings of pre-cooked foods purchased in bulk--Ms. Ferguson said she and her colleagues would figure something out.

"You know, we're all trained to put out a good product, no matter if we're given a hot plate and a pan or state-of-the-art equipment," said Ms. Ferguson, mother of two district students, pastry chef at Mio Kitchen and Wine Bar in Aspinwall and owner of Fraiche Confections, a company that makes truffles and chocolates.

Mr. Peck said he's willing to entertain suggestions.

For some children, the meals served in school are the best they'll get all day. Mr. Peck said a school breakfast program can boost attendance and improve test scores.

He said school meals -- like hospital and airline food -- are an easy target for criticism. But his 450-person department has the daunting task of serving an average of 33,000 meals each weekday, while meeting district, state and federal nutritional guidelines and staying within a $15 million budget.

The hub of the operation is a South Side warehouse and production center, a place bustling with activity by 6:30 a.m. weekdays.

Large rotating components on the assembly line drop chicken nuggets, peas or other items into lunch trays. Large vats are used to prepare chili and pasta. Other equipment is used to prepare the instant mashed potatoes.

Schools have ovens for heating meals. They have refrigerators and freezers.

But only a couple of schools have stoves, steamers or the three-compartment sinks needed to wash, rinse and sanitize cooking items. Elementary schools lack can openers, underscoring the big change that would have to occur if food service were to begin cooking from scratch.

"It would have to be part of the district's strategic plan," Mr. Peck said.

The school district gives no money to food service; rather, Mr. Peck pays the district for utilities and other services. The department supports itself with state and federal subsidies, cash payments for meals and proceeds from vending machines and catering.

The students recommended the hiring of a nutrition education and communications coordinator to promote the department's offerings and develop community partnerships.

Mr. Peck, who's been on the job for a year and a half, has put the Yo-Naturals line of nutritious snacks in some vending machines.

While students from low-income families long have qualified for free or reduced-price lunches, Mr. Peck this school year expanded the program.

He's offering free breakfasts to all students at 66 schools and 18 early-childhood centers and free lunches to all students at 41 schools and centers with the highest poverty rates. By expanding the program, he draws additional government subsidies.

Mr. Peck has eliminated most trans fats and increased the percentage of whole grains on the menu. Whole fruits and vegetables are supplied to schools on a regular basis.

But the menu remains a study in contrasts.

Lunch entrees include whole-grain chicken nuggets, whole-grain breaded chicken patties on whole-grain buns, whole-grain corn dogs, breaded chicken popcorn wraps and a line of Smucker's sandwiches called "Uncrustables." Breakfast offerings include assorted cereals, breakfast pizza pockets, Link-N-Dog sandwiches and strawberry pancake pods.

Ms. Ferguson said the chefs' message to Mr. Peck is, "Let us help you." She said they could start on a small scale with such items as fresh scrambled eggs or baked chicken.

"I know the whole thing is not going to change overnight," she said.

Right now, some high-school students and some middle-grade students pay as much as $1.50. Ms. Ferguson said some parents might be willing to pay higher prices for better meals.