When Norraset Nareedokmai and his wife, Eileen, took over the kitchen of Bangkok Balcony in 2004, they wanted to do more than run a successful restaurant -- they wanted Pittsburgh to recognize Thai food as a distinct cuisine, to appreciate its unique flavors, cooking methods, even culture. So they hosted visiting chefs, helped raise money for a proposed Thai Nationality Room in the University of Pittsburgh's Cathedral of Learning and established a partnership with Suan Dusit Rajabhat University in Bangkok.

It is impossible to say for certain whether their work has played an essential role in the flourishing of Pittsburgh Thai cuisine, but today, there is a Thai restaurant, if not more than one, in almost every neighborhood. Many distinguish themselves for their authentic presentation of unique Thai flavors, ingredients and dishes. And yet Bangkok Balcony, at least in some ways, continues to stand out.

Its location on Squirrel Hill's busy Forbes Avenue can be easy to miss, marked only by a door that leads to a narrow stair. But those who make their way up to the restaurant's second floor dining room are met by an unexpectedly lovely vision. Vibrant colors, sleek tables and abundant greenery immediately entrance the eye. Shelves display Thai sculptures and statues. Shifting colors help divide the long room -- a glowing red meets a vibrant yellow in the main room, augmented with curling vines and flowers traced in gold. Silk hangings reach from the ceiling and the large window that faces the street provides a picturesque look even for those seated further back.

All of this attention to detail sets the bar high, and in this context the food can feel like a letdown, particularly since most dishes are a few dollars more than at other Thai restaurants. Bangkok Balcony offers the usual array of Thai specialties, including soups, curries, noodle dishes and stir fries. These dishes were generally on par with Pittsburgh's better Thai restaurants, but sometimes execution was a problem. Dishes such as the Lemongrass Shrimp Salad ($8.95) and Lemongrass Noodles ($11.95) were overburdened by sweet, one-dimensional sauces, lacking even a hint of the powerful, intoxicating perfume of lemongrass. Penang Curry with Beef ($12.95) had depth of flavor, but the vegetables were overcooked. Pork Dumplings ($7.25) tasted oversteamed.

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Bangkok Balcony

1 1/2 stars = Good+
Ratings explained

5846 Forbes Ave.
Squirrel Hill
412-521-0728
bangkokbalconypgh.com

• Hours: Sun.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.
• Basics: Good neighborhood Thai restaurant upgraded by service and decor that shoot for fine dining status. It may not be much of a bargain, but the ambience is certainly lovely.
• Recommended dishes: Thai Lettuce Wraps, Veggie Steamed Noodle Roll, Soft Shell Crab with Basil Leaf; Steamed Whole Red Snapper, Praram Tofu, Sticky Rice with Thai Custard.
• Prices: Appetizers $3.50-8.95; main dishes $9.25-$17.95; desserts $3-$4; wine by the glass starts at $6, by the bottle $24.
• Summary: Not wheelchair accessible; nonsmoking; park on street; credit cards accepted; call for advance placement on wait-list; corkage $15.
• Noise level: Medium.

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Yet a number of dishes were a sharp contrast to these slightly sloppy preparations. It has been my experience at many Thai restaurants in Pittsburgh that the most successful dishes are the most unusual ones. Not only do they provide a more unique dining experience, they are often on the menu because they are specialties, dishes that the chef is particularly excited about. This rule of thumb certainly held at Bangkok Balcony.

Thai lettuce wraps ($8.95) were an exciting preparation of what can be an Americanized, simplistic dish. A pile of iceberg lettuce leaves was served with a half-dozen or so small containers filled with shredded coconut, dried shrimp, peanuts and diced shallot, lime, ginger and chile pepper, with a sweet sauce for dipping. Together, these ingredients create all the flavors important in Thai cuisine -- sweetness, sourness, bitterness and spiciness.

A special of whole steamed red snapper showed off how subtle Thai food can be, as delicately cooked flesh was gently seasoned only with lime, ginger and a small amount of green chiles. The fragrant liquid that had pooled under the fish was especially delicious.

Tofu dishes were the surprise star of two different meals. Cooking tofu well is difficult, but Nareedokmai clearly knows what he's doing.

The veggie steamed noodle roll ($7.50) was a delightful new discovery, somewhat similar to the typical Chinese dim sum dish of rice noodles rolled around shrimp or pork. Long noodles are stuffed with crumbled soft tofu, bean sprouts, carrot and cabbage. The tofu had a intriguing chewy texture, quite similar to ricotta, and this preparation really showcased its ability to take on other flavors.

Praram Tofu ($11.95) was a bit different than described on the menu. Large squares of fried tofu were served on a bed of baby spinach leaves, wilted from the heat but not actually steamed as their description had indicated. But the reality was superior to the description: The fresh spinach was light and delicate, and there was a wonderful contrast in texture between the crunchy exterior of the tofu and the creamy, warm interior. Thai Peanut sauce is remarkably delicious in general, and Bangkok Balcony's version is no exception.

Soft Shell Crab with Basil Leaf ($17.95) was suitably decadent. Basil plays a prominent role, as promised, but the savory taste of the soft shell crabs stands up to the other components of the dish well, and there is nothing more delicious than the custard-like interior of a soft-shell crab as it oozes through the crisp outer shell.

A final note on savory dishes -- if you'd like your food spicy, it seems you'd better be clear. Although spice levels of 8 (Bangkok Balcony has the commonly found 1-10 scale) were consistently requested, not a single dish was tongue-tingling.

Desserts were not as strong as they might be, ranging between unadorned bowls of Dave and Andy's ice cream to a tasty, but schlumpy, serving of sticky rice with Thai custard.

And although there was a wine list that was lengthier than that at the average Thai restaurant, there was no guidance from our servers and, given the havoc strongly flavored curries can wreak on wine, I felt little inclination to deviate from the unexciting but reliable accompaniment of Thai beers such as Singha.

Issues of wine pairing aside, the service was very good. Dishes arrived promptly, servers were able to answer questions about the food, and although the restaurant was generally crowded, all tables seemed well attended.

There are a lot of great Thai restaurants to choose from in Pittsburgh, and while Bangkok Balcony should still be counted among them, when it comes to the food alone, it doesn't necessarily stand out, especially given its slightly higher prices. But with that, one inarguably gets lovely ambiance and good service, additions that will matter more to some diners than to others.