PRINCEVILLE, Hawaii -- I was 10 when I first saw that iconic coastline. The one that looks like a sleeping Sioux, beautifully laid out along Hanalei Bay. I had no idea I'd be back here 27 years later, and I didn't even bring my clubs.

I remembered the road that leads down to the Princeville Hotel and the various condo developments that all look the same -- it was as if some mad city planner decided to make another Irvine on North Kauai. Nice, but nothing too spectacular from the road.

But I was jonesing for some golf. Here I am in Hawaii -- Princeville, no less. I grabbed a tee time at the Makai course, the more resort-like of Princeville's two championship courses.

OK. I wasn't feeling masochistic enough to play the Prince course, with its tough layout. They say you lose a ball for every handicap stroke. That would take care of the dozen balls I bought for the occasion. Didn't feel like ruining my day by shooting 105.

I've been playing golf since I was in the single digits, but about two years ago, I got serious about my game. I try not to hit as many houses lining whatever course I'm playing on. Some days I'm proud of my game. Other days, I just thank the good Lord that I am playing golf.

I'm cheap when it comes to golf. Anaheim Hills is nice -- it's inexpensive and it has great views. I seem to use every club in my bag. Love Los Verdes in Palos Verdes. A poor man's Torrey Pines, as I've heard it described. I remember playing Brea Creek Golf Course and Birch Hills many times in my formative years. Cheapola. And anybody remember Imperial Golf Course?

But what the heck. This is Hawaii. Another world. This is golf the way the founding fathers intended it to be played. Beautiful surroundings. Ocean views. Well-maintained fairways in an exotic locale. You can't beat the scenery. There aren't a whole lot more endorphin-inducing experiences than teeing off over a cliff to a green perched on the other side, with the shoreline of the Pacific and Kauai mountains in the background.

I got on fairly early in the morning. I had the course to myself. So I took the time to take in the scenery, weird birds, the smell of the ocean. I leapt at the chance to play in Hawaii. It is a destination for golfers. It is one of the pilgrimages that you have to take as a devotee to the game something you can recount to your buddies. And I can even say truthfully that I shot an albatross on a par 4 there.

The Makai course is actually three nine-hole courses (Lakes, Ocean and Woods). Which two are open for play any given day depends on who knows what.

I started out with the spectacular views of the Ocean course. Hole three is a 100-foot drop from tee to green over a lake. I clubbed down and watched in horror as the ball sailed into oblivion on a shanked shot. There goes one of those pretty little logo balls. Hole seven is even more intimidating -- 200 yards over a cliff. Thankfully, I just pulled it a bit and landed on the fringe.

The Lakes nine start off about as nice as any local country club, but by hole four, the course veers toward the ocean. I teed off on hole five and stayed awhile, trying to spot whales migrating. I almost hated to tee off on six -- I'd be leaving the ocean views behind.

Trying to play a decent round, taking pictures and mental notes, and enjoying myself in the meantime, proved to be a bit much to do at once, especially when you throw unfamiliar rental clubs in the mix. I missed my Hogan irons. My putter. I wished for my trusty 3-wood. They were nice rental clubs -- new Callaways. They just weren't mine. The putter, a nice model with a soft insert, felt like I was putting with cheese.

On my way out of Princeville, I stopped at the Prince course, shot a few pictures and got back in the car. I looked at the course I had yet to play.

"Next time," I told myself. Oh yeah. I'd be back.

With my own sticks.

Princeville at Hanalei golf courses, 5520 Ka Haku Road Princeville, HI 96722. 808-826-3580. www.princeville.com

Director of golf: Michael Castillo

Course designer: Robert Trent Jones Jr.

$175 (morning standard rate), $95 (afternoon standard rate), $140 (morning Princeville Resort guest), $95 (afternoon Princeville Resort guest), $95 (twilight rate from 1:30 p.m.), $50 (twilight rate after 3:30 p.m., for nine holes or more)