Upon being informed that the evening's destination was a bar that doubles as an art gallery, Munch lapsed into stereotype, picturing a minimalist white room, filled with heroin-chic, beret-wearing Parliament smokers dressed in black, gathered around any number of quasi-phallic paintings and sculptures. The only drinks available would be absinthe and coffee. And food? Feh! They call them starving artists for a reason.
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So it was with trepidation followed by relief when Munch and Avant-Garde Friend of Munch (AGFOM) entered the Birmingham Bridge Tavern -- a nice amalgamation of the blue-collar Bohemia that is the South Side.
Situated in a stately three-story corner building that has been an inn or a bar for about a century, the perfectly restored tin ceiling, handsome wooden bar and exposed brick give the place a warm, classic feel. The Birmingham Bridge Tavern is perhaps an ironic name because it is located much closer to the much cooler sounding Hot Metal Bridge (though to be fair, a nearby restaurant has already incorporated that span into its title).
The BBT's predecessor was the Forbes Field Tavern, a shot-n-beer paean to the old ballfield, but since coming under new stewardship last year the bar has taken a shift to appeal to the right-brained types that increasingly populate the neighborhood.
A pair of mirthful gargoyles watch over the bar as does the work of head bartender and artist-in-residence Jeff Holt, whose colorful paintings and elaborate liquid steel sculpture works line the walls, along with photographs by local shutterbug Cory Ayres. All works are for sale. The bar hosts seasonal art and rock shows featuring bands and artists aligned with Most Wanted Fine Art, a local artists collective. The next show is Dec. 2 (www.most-wantedfineart.com). And, rumor has is that a monthly "Big Lebowski"-themed promotion is also in the works -- to this, the Munch abides.
The Birmingham Bridge Tavern also celebrates the art of craft brewing, with 60 bottled beers available, with an emphasis on regional microbrews.
Munch went the patriotic route with a bottle of Philadelphia's Yards Thomas Jefferson's Tavern Ale ($4), a delicious golden ale that according to the brewery is crafted with honey and other ingredients to re-create a recipe specified by Mr. Two Dollar Bill himself for semiannual brewing at his Monticello estate centuries ago. While the brew did not move Munch to revolution or to author a treatise on the rights of man, it did move Munch to have another beer.
AGFOM slugged down the Harrisburg-based Troeg's Brewing's Mad Elf Holiday Ale ($4.50), a powerfully tasty ruby red brew concocted with cherries and honey, that was perhaps inspired by the late Hank the Drunk Angry Dwarf because it checks in at a whopping 11 percent alcohol by volume.
The menu comprises mostly standard bar fare, serviceable and tasty, but nothing terribly special. Several different kinds of burgers ($6.95-$7.95) and wraps ($8.95) are available, as well as Reubens ($7.95); fish sandwiches ($8.95); and of course wings ($7.95/dozen) and pierogies ($4.95 for 5).
Munch and AGFOM soaked up their suds with the Buffalo Chicken Bake appetizer, a sort of dip composite of shredded chicken, wing sauce and cheese ($6.95) served with tortilla chips.
Munch calculated an additional 67 minutes on the elliptical machine would be necessary this week after downing the Patty Melt ($7.45), a half-pound of ground Angus beef with sauteed onions and cheddar cheese, served on Texas toast. AGFOM figured roughly the same penance was in order following the Wing Burger ($7.45), also a half-pound of ground Angus beef, with Buffalo Wing sauces, lettuce, tomato and red onion served on a Kaiser roll. Both burgers came with fresh-cut fries.
Munch noticed a handful of board games stacked behind the bar, and though we didn't see anyone partaking, it occurred to AGFOM that Operation! should be kept on hand for use as an instant sobriety test. The jukebox rocked for most of the night, heavy on the Green Day and White Stripes, while conversation breezed between indie rock and L'Affaire de Terrell Owens, and therein reflected the nature of the place: funky, punky with an unpretentious vibe, good beer and local artistic flavor. A good start if ever there was one.